The volcanic island of Ischia

Castello Aragonese

Ischia is located in the Bay of Naples, and it is only a short ferry ride from the port of Pozzuoli. Known for its relaxing natural thermal spas, stunning beaches, and authentic Italian charm, Ischia offers a slower, more tranquil alternative to its famous neighbor, Capri. Whether you're wandering through picturesque streets, soaking in natural thermal waters, or savoring fresh seafood with a sea view, Ischia is a destination that invites you to unwind and experience the beauty of southern Italy at your own pace.

How to get there

There are several ports with ferry connections to Ischia, including Naples, Pozzuoli, and Monte di Procida. We almost always travel from Pozzuoli because it offers more frequent departures with several ferry companies, and it's one of the most convenient ports if you're planning to bring your car.

If you do plan to drive, keep in mind that during the summer months, non-residents are generally not allowed to bring vehicles onto the island. However, if you're military personnel stationed in Naples, you can bring your car, even in the summer. We usually bring our small car because some of Ischia's streets are incredibly narrow, and while the island's bus system is reliable, it becomes very crowded during peak season. Taxis are available but can add up quickly if you're exploring different parts of the island.

If you'd like more information about bringing your car, finding a safe parking lot in Pozzuoli, or arranging a reliable taxi service in Ischia in advance, feel free to reach out—I'd be happy to share the options we've used.

We typically purchase our ferry tickets directly at the Medmar ticket office in Pozzuoli, although you can also book passenger tickets online through Ferryhopper. If you're bringing a vehicle, however, you'll need to purchase your tickets in person and present your vehicle registration, as online booking platforms generally do not allow vehicle reservations during the summer restrictions.

Aragonese Castle: Ischia's Most Iconic Landmark

Situated on a rocky volcanic islet connected to Ischia Ponte by a long stone bridge, Aragonese Castle is the island's most recognizable landmark and a place that should be on every visitor's itinerary. With over 2,500 years of history, the castle has served as a fortress, royal residence, monastery, and refuge from pirate attacks, making it one of the most fascinating historical sites in southern Italy.

Today, visitors can wander through the castle's ancient pathways, explore medieval churches and peaceful gardens, and admire breathtaking panoramic views from nearly every corner. The climb to the top is well worth the effort, rewarding you with spectacular vistas of the Bay of Naples, the colorful village of Ischia Ponte, and the island's dramatic coastline. If you prefer to skip the steep walk, there's also an elevator that takes visitors most of the way up.

One of my favorite things about visiting the castle is that it offers much more than history. Around every corner you'll discover hidden terraces, flower-filled gardens, old stone archways, and scenic viewpoints that are perfect for taking photos or simply soaking in the beauty of the island.

After exploring the castle, take some time to stroll through the charming streets of Ischia Ponte, where you'll find boutique shops, cafés, gelato stands, and several excellent waterfront restaurants. It's the perfect place to enjoy a leisurely lunch or dinner while admiring the castle rising dramatically above the sea.

Whether you're interested in history, photography, or simply looking for one of the best viewpoints on the island, Aragonese Castle is an unforgettable destination and one of the true highlights of any trip to Ischia.

Where to stay

Over the years, we've stayed at four different hotels in Ischia, and each one has its own advantages and drawbacks. I'll share our experiences with each so you can decide which one best fits your travel style.

One tip I've learned: the best rates are almost always available by booking directly with the hotel. I usually browse sites like Booking.com or Hotels.com to compare properties, then contact the hotel directly for a quote. Every time I've done this, I've received a significantly better rate than what was listed on the booking websites.

Strand Hotel Delfini: Without a doubt, this hotel has our favorite location on the island. Perched on dramatic cliffs with crystal-clear turquoise water below, it offers breathtaking views of the iconic Aragonese Castle. Instead of a traditional sandy beach, the hotel features a large wooden sun deck with loungers, umbrellas, and steps leading directly into the sea.

Just a short swim away are several small rocky islets with ancient Roman ruins, making this one of our favorite places for snorkeling and even a little cliff jumping. We brought our inflatable paddleboard and paddled all the way to the Aragonese Castle—a memorable experience and one of the highlights of our visit.

One of the hotel's most unique features is the water taxi service. A charming wooden boat picks guests up from the hotel's private pier and transports them to different parts of the island for shopping or dinner. The service operates until late in the evening, so you can enjoy a leisurely meal without worrying about finding transportation back to the hotel.

Pros: Besides its unbeatable location, breathtaking views, and incredible oceanfront sun deck, the hotel also has an excellent restaurant. We ended up dining there several times because the combination of delicious local cuisine, attentive service, and panoramic views made every meal memorable. Our room featured a private balcony overlooking the sea, and waking up to that view every morning was one of the highlights of our stay.

Cons: This was by far the most expensive hotel we stayed at in Ischia, and unfortunately, the service did not live up to the premium price.

We booked a room for four people, but it was extremely cramped, leaving barely enough space to walk between the beds. Even more disappointing, during our three-night stay, our room was never properly cleaned. Despite bringing the issue to the front desk several times, I had to request clean towels every day. The beds were never made, and aside from the trash being emptied once, there was essentially no housekeeping service.

We also experienced some frustrating miscommunication regarding the hotel's pet policy. Their website and Booking.com both stated that pets were welcome at no extra charge. Since we travel with a large dog, I called before making our non-refundable reservation to confirm that he would be allowed, and I was assured there would be no additional fee. However, after booking, I emailed the hotel to let them know we would be bringing our dog and was informed that large dogs required a €20 per day fee.

I replied, pointing out the conflicting information and reminding them of my phone conversation, but never received a response. To avoid any complications, we decided to leave our dog at home with a pet sitter. Ironically, after we had already checked in and I raised the issue in person, they finally responded to my email saying everything had been resolved and our dog could stay at no extra charge, but of course, we were already in Ischia. This was the first of many disappointing customer service experiences at this hotel.

Hotel Paradise: Perched on a hillside above the port of Casamicciola, Hotel Paradise offers spectacular panoramic views of the island and the Bay of Naples. It provides free parking, a convenient shuttle service, an excellent restaurant, and a beautiful rooftop bar where you can enjoy the sunset. We found the rates to be very reasonable when booking directly with the hotel.

Although the property has several swimming pools, none of them are thermal pools. Fortunately, the hotel has an agreement with a nearby spa hotel that allows guests to purchase access to its thermal pools, making it a nice option if you're looking to experience Ischia's famous thermal waters.

The rooms are a bit dated but spacious and comfortable enough for a family of four, each with a small private balcony.

The biggest drawback is the location. While the views are incredible, the hotel sits at the top of a steep hill with very narrow roads leading to it. There isn't easy walking access to beaches, restaurants, or town centers, so unless you have a car, you'll likely need to rely on the hotel's shuttle service, as public transportation in this area is fairly limited.

Hotel Terme La Pergola & Villa Flavio: Located near Hotel Paradise, Hotel Terme La Pergola & Villa Flavio became one of our favorite places to stay because of its wonderful thermal pools. After previously visiting the thermal spa from another hotel, we decided to stay here so we could enjoy the pools throughout our visit without having to travel back and forth.

The hotel offers free parking, a shuttle service, comfortable rooms at reasonable prices, and beautiful views across the island. The highlight is definitely the pool area, which includes three thermal pools and two large outdoor swimming pools. Even during the busier months, the pools never felt overcrowded, making them the perfect place to relax.

The breakfast was fairly basic, but the hotel's restaurant served delicious meals with fantastic views. Throughout our stay, the staff was welcoming, friendly, and always helpful.

One thing to keep in mind is that the property is built on several levels, with many stairs connecting the rooms, pools, and main reception area. While this wasn't an issue for us, it did make getting around more challenging for my elderly parents.

Hotel Parco Conte: Hotel Parco Conte is a charming, family-owned hotel located just outside the port of Casamicciola. It quickly became one of our favorite places because of its warm hospitality, excellent service, and welcoming atmosphere.

The hotel has a lovely outdoor swimming pool with beautiful views, although it does not have thermal pools or direct beach access. Many of the rooms have been recently renovated, and we found them modern, comfortable, and very clean. Breakfast was another highlight, with a great selection of fresh options each morning.

Its location is one of its biggest advantages. Unlike some hillside hotels, Parco Conte is close enough to Casamicciola's restaurants, shops, and waterfront that you can easily walk into town. The hotel also offers a complimentary shuttle service to nearby areas and has a small free parking lot for guests traveling by car.

If you're looking for a comfortable, reasonably priced hotel with excellent service and convenient access to town, this is a great option.

Thermal parks

Being a volcanic island, Ischia is known for its numerous natural hot springs and thermal parks. Most hotels offer their own thermal pools, but there are two main thermal parks on the island that you must visit! They only open from May to October, so make sure you check their websites if you are planning your trip during those months. I have also done, on many ocassions, day trips from Pozzouli with friends to a thermal park, by taking the first ferry in the morning, and returning late in the afternoon. So, how do you know which park to choose? Let me give you, my honest feedback for both.

Giardini Poseidon Terme: Located along the beautiful Citara Bay on the western coast of Ischia, this is one of the island's most famous thermal parks and a must-visit destination for anyone looking to experience Ischia’s legendary healing waters. Surrounded by green gardens and overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, this expansive thermal complex combines relaxation, wellness, and incredible views in one unforgettable setting.

The park features more than a dozen thermal pools, each with different temperatures ranging from warm to hot, allowing visitors to move between pools and experience the therapeutic benefits of Ischia’s naturally heated volcanic waters. In addition to the thermal pools, there are freshwater pools, a Kneipp therapy path, hydro-massage areas, saunas, and wellness treatments designed for complete relaxation.

One of the highlights of Poseidon is its spectacular location. The pools are built into the hillside, creating different levels connected by beautiful garden paths, with breathtaking views of Citara Bay from almost every corner of the park. It is the perfect place to spend an entire day relaxing, soaking in the thermal waters, enjoying a peaceful lunch, and watching the sunset over the sea.

The park also has a restaurant and snack areas, plenty of sun loungers, large changing facilities with free lockers, and direct access to Citara Beach, making it easy to combine a thermal spa day with time by the sea. Because of its size and variety of pools, it never feels like a typical crowded swimming pool, and there are plenty of quiet areas where you can unwind.

Keep in mind that this property is built on a hillside, so there are quite a few stairs and walking paths between the pools, restaurants, and facilities. Comfortable shoes are a good idea, especially for anyone with mobility concerns.

For us, Giardini Poseidon is one of the best ways to experience what makes Ischia unique: the combination of volcanic thermal waters, Mediterranean landscapes, and breathtaking coastal views. It is more than just a spa—it is a full-day island experience.

Negombo: Similar to Poseidon, Negombo is surrounded by botanical gardens, volcanic thermal waters, and the Mediterranean Sea. It also features a variety of thermal, marine, and therapeutic pools, each with different temperatures and experiences, including hydro-massage areas, a Kneipp path, a Turkish bath, and wellness treatments. Some pools are tucked into the gardens and blend naturally into the landscape, creating the feeling of discovering hidden corners throughout the property.

The restaurant in Negombo offers fantastic local dishes. I highly recommend booking a table and having a nice relaxing lunch there. The shallow, calm waters of San Montano Bay also make it a great option for families or anyone who wants to combine relaxation with time at the beach.

The beautifully landscaped gardens create a quieter, more exclusive atmosphere, and there are plenty of peaceful areas to sit, read, or simply enjoy the views.

Poseidon vs Negombo: which one should I choose?

Both Poseidon and Negombo offer an unforgettable wellness experience, with multiple thermal pools surrounded by green botanical gardens and access to beautiful private beach areas. Both parks are excellent choices for a relaxing day in Ischia, and the price is generally comparable, although Negombo can sometimes be slightly more expensive.

There are a few important differences to consider when choosing between the two.

At Poseidon, guests are required to wear a hat while using the pools. It does not have to be a traditional swimming cap—a baseball cap, sun hat, or similar cover is acceptable—but your hair must be covered and tied up. This is not required at Negombo.

Poseidon also has age restrictions: children under 12 are only allowed in a designated children's area and cannot access all of the thermal pools.

If you are visiting Ischia with children under 12, Negombo is probably the better choice since children can access the majority of the pools, and families have much more freedom to enjoy the park together without restrictions.

Another advantage of Poseidon is the changing area, which I found to be larger, cleaner, and more convenient. The park provides free lockers that can be secured using the bracelet you receive at check-in. At Negombo, lockers are available but require an additional fee.

Overall, both thermal parks are beautiful and worth visiting, but the best choice depends on your travel style. For couples or adults looking for a quiet, relaxing thermal experience, I personally prefer Poseidon because of its larger pools, more pools with warmer water, the natural sauna located inside the mountain, and a more peaceful atmosphere. For families traveling with children, Negombo is the more flexible and family-friendly option, and I always enjoy getting the mud facial treatment for an additional fee.

Where to Eat in Ischia

Beyond the excellent restaurants at the hotels we've stayed in, Ischia is filled with charming towns, lively piazzas, and waterfront restaurants that make dining one of the highlights of visiting the island. Whether you're looking for a casual seaside lunch or a memorable fine dining experience, you'll find plenty of options.

Forio is one of the island's most vibrant towns and is especially famous for its spectacular sunsets. Each evening, locals and visitors gather at Piazzetta del Soccorso to enjoy an aperitivo while watching the sun sink into the Mediterranean—a tradition that's well worth experiencing.

During one visit, we dined at Umberto a Mare, a Michelin-starred restaurant near the piazza. The setting is beautiful, with incredible sea views and elegantly presented dishes. While it was certainly a unique dining experience, we personally weren't impressed with the food. Despite the high price, the portions were quite small, and we left feeling hungry.

Ristorante Auras

Our favorite restaurant in Ischia, without question, is Ristorante Auras, located near the Aragonese Castle. Everything about our experience was exceptional—from the warm, attentive service to the outstanding food and breathtaking waterfront views. Every dish we ordered was fresh, beautifully prepared, and full of flavor, making it one of the best meals we've had on the island.

One of the restaurant's hidden gems is a cozy cocktail bar tucked away just across the street. It's the perfect place to unwind before or after dinner with a handcrafted cocktail or a glass of local limoncello while enjoying the relaxed atmosphere.

There are several other restaurants along the same waterfront, many offering equally beautiful views and tempting menus. While we're sure you can't go wrong with many of them, Ristorante Auras remains our top recommendation and a place we look forward to returning to on every trip to Ischia.