5 Days in Southern Albania: The Perfect Road Trip Itinerary

If you’re looking for a European destination with crystal-clear turquoise water, beautiful beaches, charming historic towns, and surprisingly affordable prices, Albania should definitely be on your list.

We had just five days in Albania, so we decided to focus on the southern part of the country. Our goal was to experience some of Albania’s famous beaches, visit the Blue Eye, explore the beautiful town of Gjirokastër, and spend plenty of time enjoying the incredible coastline around Ksamil. One of the best decisions we made was renting a car. Having our own car gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace and make stops along the way without being tied to a tour schedule. The roads weren't bad, and after driving in Italy for 4 years, nothing seems to scare us anymore!

Day 1: Fly to Tirana

Our Albanian adventure started with a flight to Tirana, Albania’s capital city. There were cheap and direct flights from Naples, compared to trying to go Greece, so this was one of our deciding factors for our long weekend beach getaway.

Since we arrived in the evening, we kept things simple. After landing, we picked up our rental car and settled in for the night at a very nice hotel near the airport. We stayed at MK Hotel Tirana and would definitely stay there again.

Because our main destination was the Albanian Riviera, we didn’t spend much time exploring Tirana on this trip. If you have additional time, however, Tirana is definitely worth adding to your itinerary.

Our plan was to get an early start the next morning and head south toward Ksamil.

Day 2: The Blue Eye

We started our first full day early and headed south toward one of Albania’s most famous natural attractions: the Blue Eye, or Syri i Kaltër. This incredible natural freshwater spring is known for its intense turquoise-blue color. The water comes from an underground source, creating a deep, crystal-clear pool surrounded by lush greenery. And let me tell you—the color is even more impressive in person. Photos really don’t do it justice!

When you arrive, there are two main parking areas. One is located at the beginning of the vendor street, and another is at the end, just before the park’s main entrance. If you have some extra time, I recommend parking at the first parking lot and walking along the vendor street. The walk is actually part of the experience. Along the way, you’ll find lots of fresh fruit stands and small vendors, including tables set right along the river. You can sit by the water, soak your feet in the refreshing—and very cold!—river, and enjoy some fresh fruit or a smoothie. There are also electric bikes available for rent along the vendor street if you’d rather not walk.

Once you reach the park entrance, there is a small admission fee. From there, you have two options for getting to the Blue Eye: walk or take the small tourist train for an additional fee.

As beautiful as the Blue Eye was, this was probably our biggest disappointment. Swimming is not allowed in the Blue Eye. By the time we reached the spring, we were hot and sweaty from the walk and were really hoping to jump into that beautiful blue water to cool off! Unfortunately, there are signs throughout the area prohibiting swimming. We did see a few people getting into the water anyway, but I would definitely recommend respecting the rules and keeping your swimming adventure for one of Albania’s many beaches.

There are also a few lovely restaurants and a small hotel along the river. If you have time, I recommend spending about an hour exploring the area, taking photos, and perhaps stopping for a drink while enjoying the beautiful views of the turquoise water.

The Blue Eye

After exploring the Blue Eye, we continued our drive south toward Ksamil. The drive itself was part of the adventure. As we got closer to the coast, the scenery became increasingly beautiful, with mountains, olive groves, and glimpses of the bright blue Ionian Sea along the way.

When we finally arrived in Ksamil, we immediately understood why this little coastal town has become such a popular destination. The water was incredibly turquoise, and the small islands scattered just offshore made the scenery look almost tropical. It honestly felt like we had arrived somewhere completely different. After checking into our hotel, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the coastline—exactly what we needed after a morning of exploring and driving. For hotel recommendations in Ksamil, check my hotel review Ksamil, Albania: Euro Hotel.

Day 3: Pema e Thatë Beach & Dinner in Ksamil

After a busy travel day, we dedicated our third day to something very important: the beach!

We headed to Pema e Thatë, a beautiful beach located just outside Ksamil. The water was exactly what we had hoped for—clear, calm, and that beautiful shade of blue-green that makes you want to stay in the water all day. One of the things we loved about this area was how easy it was to spend an entire day simply relaxing. After exploring so much of Albania, it was nice to slow down, enjoy the sunshine, swim, and take in the scenery. It was also surprisingly affordable to rent sunbeds for the day! We opted for a private gazebo with an overhanging net over the water that comfortably held 4 people, and only paid 45€ for the entire day! We also had a very tasteful meal at their restaurant with a bottle of wine, 4 main dishes, and 2 appetizers for a little bit over 100€ total.

In the evening, we headed back to Ksamil for dinner. Ksamil has plenty of restaurants, cafés, and places to enjoy a drink after a day at the beach. Walking around town in the evening was a fun way to experience a different side of the area after spending the day on the coast. It reminded us a little bit of Ibiza.

Pema e Thatë beach area and Ksamil at night

Day 4: Ksamil Islands, Ali Pasha Castle & Sunset

On day four, we booked a boat tour around the Ksamil Islands, which gave us the opportunity to see the coastline from the water and visit some places that are difficult to reach by car. Seeing Ksamil from the water was incredible. The combination of tiny islands, rocky coastline, and crystal-clear water made it feel like we had been transported somewhere much farther away.

Private boat tour from Ksamil

One of our stops was Ali Pasha Castle, a small historic fortress surrounded by beautiful blue water. The castle dates back to the Ottoman period and is located on a small peninsula near the Ksamil area. Its location is what makes the visit so special—you get a little history along with some spectacular scenery.

Ali Pasha Castle is only accessible by boat.

After spending the morning on the water, we headed back toward Ksamil and spent the afternoon at a beach club. And this was the perfect place to end the day. We relaxed by the water, enjoyed the beach, and stayed to watch the sunset.

There’s something special about watching the sun go down over the Ionian Sea with a drink, good food, and beautiful scenery around you. We stayed for dinner and ended the evening enjoying one of our favorite memories from the trip.

Sunset at Nysa Beach Club in Ksamil

Day 5: Gjirokastër

Unfortunately, all good trips have to come to an end! On our final day, we checked out of Ksamil and began our drive back toward Tirana. Rather than driving straight to the airport, we decided to make one more stop: Gjirokastër.

Gjirokastër is one of the most beautiful historic towns in Albania and is often referred to as the “Stone City.” The old town is filled with stone-roofed Ottoman houses, cobblestone streets, small shops, cafés, and beautiful views over the surrounding valley.

We spent some time walking through the historic center, taking in the architecture, and enjoying one last taste of Albania before getting back on the road.

From Gjirokastër, we continued toward Tirana International Airport for our flight home.

The beautiful town of Gjirokastër

Tips for a trip to Albania

Rent a car: For this itinerary, I would definitely recommend renting a car. Having our own vehicle made it much easier to visit the Blue Eye, explore different beaches, move between Ksamil and Gjirokastër, and travel on our own schedule.

Start your driving days early: The distances in Albania can be deceiving. The roads through the mountains and along the coast are beautiful, but some drives take longer than you might expect. Give yourself plenty of time, especially if you have a flight to catch.

Spend at least two days around Ksamil: There is so much to see and do around Ksamil that I wouldn't recommend trying to squeeze it into just one day. Having multiple days allowed us to enjoy the beaches without constantly feeling like we had to rush to the next attraction.

Don't skip the boat tour: If you’re staying in Ksamil, a boat tour is absolutely worth it.

You get a completely different perspective of the coastline, and the water is even more impressive from the boat.

Visit the Blue Eye early: The Blue Eye is one of Albania's most popular attractions, so going earlier in the day can make the experience much more enjoyable.

Visit off season: We visited the first week of September, and the temperatures were still high enough to enjoy all the water activities. Locals said the month of August is extremely busy, so they recommend either June or September for a more enjoyable experience.

Final Thoughts

Five days wasn't nearly enough time to see everything Albania has to offer, but it was enough to experience some of the country's highlights. From the incredible blue waters of Ksamil and Pema e Thatë, to the natural beauty of the Blue Eye, the historic Ali Pasha Castle, and the charming stone streets of Gjirokastër, this trip gave us an amazing mix of beaches, nature, history, and adventure.

And honestly, one of the biggest surprises was just how beautiful the Albanian coastline is.

If you love the beaches of Greece but are looking for somewhere that can feel a little more affordable and adventurous, Albania is definitely worth adding to your travel list. 

Would I go back? Absolutely. And next time, I want to explore even more of the Albanian Riviera and Northern Albania.